City Restaurant

9 02 2013

City Restaurant on Anchor Road is run by second year BTEC catering and hospitality students at the City of Bristol College, where the restaurant is housed. Students are both front of house and in the kitchen; this is not playtime but is most certainly the real thing.

Before too long, these students will hopefully have gainful employment. And who knows who might follow in the footsteps of City of Bristol College alumnus Josh Eggleton, whose Pony & Trap in Chew Magna holds a Michelin star.

Cuisine inside

City Restaurant is open from Monday to Friday for mid-morning coffee and lunch, and then on Thursdays hosts themed nights, which over the next few weeks will be taking in the food of Denmark, Northern France, Turkey, Greece and Switzerland.

There are also gourmet six-course taster menus for the ludicrously good value of £21.95, the price of a single piece of steak in other Bristol restaurants.

Yes, for the first course when I visited last week of potato ice cream, creme fraiche and caviar we were not given cutlery, and our bottle was left on our table unopened, but these niggles mattered not and took nothing away from our enjoyment of the evening.

Eating here brought to mind Ferment at the Old Vic, where work in progress and unfinished pieces of work are performed in the studio. Our attentive waiting staff were not quite yet the finished product, and the food was competent but with none of the delicate touches of more experienced chefs.

A favourite course was the amuse bouche of blue cheese panna cotta with redcurrant jelly; and the guinea fowl, parsnips, girolles and oats.

The candles on the tables and large panoramic black and white photos of Bristol landmarks such as the Royal York Crescent and Pero’s Bridge provided a convivial atmosphere, in a dining room populated by a large table of what looked like friends of the student staff, and also a round table of two retired couples.

I even lay on the floor as requested by my young daughter to make snow angels, unthinkable in any other restaurant.

Despite its young and inexperienced staff, this is a restaurant and one that is better than many across Bristol. It is most certainly worth a visit to perhaps be cooked for by Bristol’s Michelin-starred chefs of the future.

City Restaurant

www.cityofbristol.ac.uk/college-life/facilities/restaurants/city-restaurant/


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